Beauty Maverick

CHANEL Fall '11 RTW: Metallic Manicure

Of all the previews each season, CHANEL's showing is the one I look to for the next big nail color craze. The brand's limited-edition offerings are always spot-on, with each boasting a unique finish that's both fashion-forward and universally flattering.

Fall's Le Vernis to pre-order come July? Graphite, an iridescent grey-green.

Altuzarra F/W '11: Kate Circa Johnny

"A very cool girl with a glam-rock sophistication about her... She's a bit of a bitch," describes lead makeup artist Tom Pecheux.

The Eye: M.A.C Eye Shadow in Lady Grey (available a/w '11) applied over the eyelid & upward. Keep Your Cool Pro Longwear Eye Shadow (also launching a/w '11) blended through the outer eyelid & upward to elongate with a soft winged shape. Pro Pigment in Platinum Metal defines the inner corners with a strong metallic highlight. Rich Purple Pro Chromagraphic Pencil – blended through the lower lashline and through the crease – completes the look.

Alexander Wang F/W '11: Fine Hair

"It’s very simple, easy hair… kind of how the girls wear it themselves — a little edgy and downtown. We’re using a Redken wax to get some texture, and a Sultra curling iron just to bend it a little bit. It’s a bit dirty, not sweet — a not washed kind of feeling. Sort of a slept in look. A little messy center part, a loose pony tail, like it’s falling out, and tucked behind the ear. We’re doing a hidden braid underneath to take away some of the volume, if it’s too thick. In real life, girls want thick luscious hair, but on the runway, fine hair often works better — it looks cooler, in a way."

— Guido

Luca Luca F/W '11: Modern English

Revlon Global Artistic Director, Gucci Westman, paired a contoured eye with a strong lip for the Luca Luca Fall 2011 collection, bringing forth the designer’s vision of a forest fairytale filled with lush orange and okra hues.

“The look is about a fresh, modern girl on an adventure,” says Westman. “She’s refined, yet modern. I created an eye that is contoured but not overly done so the attention is focused on the bright, striking lip.”

The Lip: ColorStay Lipliner in Red, Super Lustrous Lipstick in Chocoliscious & Matte Lipstick in Really Red.

Jenni Kayne F/W '11: Grown-Up Grunge

CND's Angi Wingle created a blushing taupe manicure to complement the poppy-magenta lips and stick-straight hair at Jenni Kayne.

Get the look: Apply one coat of nude-opaque Desert Suede, then layer with Copper Shimmer. Wash-out with a coat of semi-sheer patina Rose Water and top with Super Matte.

Preen Spring 2011

Artists: James Kaliardos for M.A.C Cosmetics; Luke Hersheson for Redken. 

Inspiration: Posh school girl.

The Look: "It's a '90's look inspired by Catherine Deneuve in her 1964 french film, The Umbrellas of Cherbourg," said Kaliardos.

M.A.C Prep and Prime Finishing Powder was first applied to the face, followed by a sweep of Give Me Sun bronzer on the cheeks for a sun-kissed look. Pearl Cream Color Base was used to highlight the cheekbones. On the eyes, Lite Brite, a bale blue shimmer, was applied to the inner corners of the eye, followed by Swell Baby, in the crease. Lashes were curled but left bare. Lips were painted with Super Kissable Lip Color in Nude.

To compliment, hair was equally playful with an emphasis on natural-looking sheen. Models wore clip-on bangs that tapered in the front. The rest of the head was lightly curled and brushed-out, then finished with Redken Full Force Hair Spray and Body Full Amplifier.

Backstage Buzz: Check out New York's exclusive video above.

Boy./Girl. By Band of Outsiders Spring 2011

Artists: Neil Moodie for Bumble & bumble; Dick Page for Shiseido. 

Inspiration: Country innocence vs. urban androgyny. 

The Look: Page veto'd liquid makeup and powder for both Boy. and Girl., using corrector only to conceal spots. Brows were also groomed as needed.

For Boy., a striking "transfer eye" was created by smudging black pencil at the lash line and in the socket, followed by a coat of Shiseido Full Correction Lip Treatment (a clear balm) on the entire lid, and black liquid liner (applied with a brush) at the outer corners for added intensity. The desired finish revealed itself after a few minutes, as the balm began to blur the dark lines. The eyes were then completed using black mascara. Lips and cheeks were left bare.

The focus shifted away from the eyes for Girl., with a flushed cheek and lip taking center stage. Page used a damp sponge to apply Shiseido Shimmering Rouge in RD601 (new for spring) at the temples, across the apples of the cheeks (towards the eyes), along the bridge of the nose and on the lips.

Hair was also styled two ways, with rough, textured tresses paired with Boy. pieces and a softer, side-swept ponytail used to compliment the Girl. collection. Stylists relied on Bb Prep, Thickening, Surf Spray, Grooming Creme, Brilliantine and Spray de Mode to create both looks.

Backstage Buzz: Male models admiring each other's hair and makeup (no joke); Reporters trying to get a sneak peek at Scott Sternberg's fourth line before the hour.

Doo.Ri Spring 2011

Artists: Tom Pecheux for M.A.C; Orlando Pita (Hair); Jin Soon Choi for Zoya.

Inspiration: The delicate fabrics, feminine cuts and muted color palette of the collection.

The Look: Pecheux opted for translucent beige skin with a sateen finish. Brows and lashes were kept bare, with the focus set on a soft, multicolor eye (pink, yellow, lavender and orange cream-based shadows were blended and topped with a touch of clear gloss). A creamy vanilla lip (M.A.C Studio Finish Skin Corrector in Ash Blonde) with just a hint of mustard-yellow in the center (M.A.C Studio Finish Skin Corrector in Ochre) finished the face.

Hair was blown straight, then slightly teased at the crown using T3 Elevate and pulled back ever-so-lightly to create a loose, low-slung ponytail.

Choi used a single coat of Zoya Nail Polish in Sally, a dusty mauve frost, over rounded nails to complete the look.

Backstage Buzz: Models & co. were in high spirits, with hair and makeup taking little time and friends allowed backstage to socialize. Choi also told us that she'll be behind-the-scenes at tonight's Saks 5th Avenue fête, prepping the tips of A-list attendees. 

Trend to Watch: Grown-Out Guilded Nails

Nails were dipped in gold metallic to complement the dripping effect of the clothing at Thursday's Cushnie et Ochs Spring 2011 show, a finish created by manicurist Pattie Yankee for Dashing Diva.

Get the look: Paint each nail with a clear base coat, then apply gold foil (rubbing it straight onto the surface) a few millimeters above the base. For an edgier finish, lightly file.

Get the Look: Cruise Casual

"Effortless, natural beauty; Relaxed girls who are enjoying their holidays. That was the main idea behind the look for [the Cruise 2010] show."
— Peter Philips, Global Creative Director of CHANEL Makeup.

To compliment the amber, absinthe, sky blue and bright pink color palette of Lagerfeld's latest collection, Philips painted the models in the following:

Base: Skin prepped with Hydramax + Active Nourishing Cream, then perfected with Vitalumière Aqua Foundation (March 2011), Poudre Universelle Libre Natural Finish Loose Powder, Éclat Lumière Highlighter Face Pen, Correcteur Perfection Long Lasting Concealer and Soleil Tan de CHANEL Bronzing Makeup Base. Finished with a wash of Soleil Tan de Chanel Sheer Illuminating Fluid on the cheeks. 

Eyes: Ombres Contraste Duo Eyeshadow Duo in Taupe-Délicat (September 2010), Le Crayon Sourcils Precision Brow Definer and Inimitable Waterproof Mascara in Black.

Lips: Soin Tendre Lèvres Hydra-Treatment Lip Care SPF 15, applied over a new lipstick pencil (launch date TBD).

Nails: Le Vernis Nail Colour in Jade Rose and a new pastel blue shade (TBD).