Beauty Maverick

M.A.C + Jin Soon = Fall's Must-Have Color Collection

Matte, modern lacquers are all rage for F/W '09. And, as always, M.A.C nails the trend with a lustworthy color collection, set to hit stores later this month. 

Below, Jin Soon Choi— the famed manicurist behind these hues— provides her expert advice on all things ongles.

Q1: What's the secret to a long-lasting manicure, is it in the choice of polish or the application (or both)?

Mostly the application. To get a long lasting manicure, clean the nail surface with a Q-tip or cotton-wrapped orange wood stick to ensure you have a grease-free nail bed. Apply the base coat and polish in even, moderately thin strokes.  If you apply the polish too thick, it will be more likely to chip.  If applied too thin, you will need a lot more coats which will result in an uneven appearance. Last, be sure to apply a top coat.  It extends the life of the nail polish, both in terms of color retention and durability. It prevents pesky chipping and keeps the nail polish shiny and fresh.  Apply the top coat to the entire nail surface (without touching the cuticle), working from the left to the right. And don't forget to touch up the tip of the free edge.

Q2: Do you feel one's hands and feet should match, or are complimentary colors a more modern choice? 

I recommend choosing complimentary colors for a more modern/current look.

Q3: It seems that square is the shape du jour, but a round nail is considered to be more flattering. Which finish do you personally prefer? Does one's choice of color play a role?

I do recommend that women avoid overly long nails and stick with a moderate approach to nail length and shape.  My favorite nail is short in length with a rounded square-shaped end (convex in form) and straight on the sides with a rounded corner— my employees and clients at my salons call it the “Jin Soon Shape.”

Q4: What five shades of nail lacquer do you feel every woman should own?

Sheer pink, red, purple (For Fun by M.A.C) for an everyday look, and lavender (Cool Reserve), and dark green (Beyond Jealous) for a stylish look.

Q5: To cut, or not to cut?

Remember that the primary purpose of the cuticle is to protect your nails. If you really want to have clean cuticles, push back the cuticle thoroughly and just snip the noticeable hanging or dead skin only--not the cuticle itself.  If you do a good job of pushing the cuticle back thoroughly, you shouldn't have to cut the cuticle very much at all.

Q5 with Gina Gilbert

With a confident, laid back style that's as signature as the shades she creates, master colorist Gina Gilbert has been quietly coloring our world pretty— one A-List actress at a time.

See below for Gina's expert advice on going blonde, common mistakes, and the best products to use on color-treated hair.

Q1: Can anyone go blonde, or do you feel that color works best with certain skin tones/hair types?

No, you need to have the right eye/skin color and natural light base color to work with. No darker then light brown should go blonde.

Q2: What's the difference between a color glaze done at a salon and an at-home treatment (like John Frieda's Luminous Color Glaze)?

The color glosses at salons have a larger variety of colors to choose from and they last longer.

Q3: Do you believe in dying the eyebrows of a client to match their hair color, or is that an effect best achieved with makeup?

I'm not a fan of dyeing eyebrows the same shade as hair color unless you need to cover grey hair, in which case you can soften them a bit. Take the edge off.

Q4: What do you find to be the most common mistakes women make with hair color?

Doing their own color, going too far away from their natural color, choosing the wrong shade, and not leaving the color on long enough.

Q5: Which products for color-treated hair do you use personally? Is there a product you can't live without?

John Frieda Weather Works Shampoo and Conditioner, and Klorane Dry Shampoo.

To schedule a consultation with Gina, contact the Serge Normant at John Frieda Salon. Though based in New York, a limited number of appointments are also accepted at their Los Angeles location.

Q5 with Charlotte Tilbury

There are few people in the industry that can command the level of respect and admiration that comes so naturally to Charlotte Tilbury. She simply transcends titles and limitations.

And whilst Charlotte has become as recognizable as her celebrity clientele, she remains one of the most charming and accessible women you could hope to meet. She's quick to share her insider tips/tricks, and admit that she'd rather be caught nude than head out the door without a proper coat of mascara and a little color on her cheeks.

I recently had the chance to interview this globetrotting superartist, for her expert advice on everything from beauty tools and the ultimate concealer, to the secret behind her flawless complexion...

Q1. Did you always long to be an artist, or did you stumble upon your talent by chance?

I always knew I wanted to do something involving the arts. My father is a painter and I knew I had his talents but I also felt drawn to the fashion industry, with a huge interest in clothes, shoes and trends. I was always styling my friends and doing their hair. 

At the age of 13, I met makeup artist Mary Greenwell and she definitely inspired me in my choice of career. But it was when I was about 16 and met a different makeup artist, with whom I had a long conversation about what his job in the fashion industry involved. I instantly knew that this was what I wanted to do with my life. There was no turning back, I had made my mind up and I told my mum that same day that I was going to be a makeup artist!

Q2. What beauty trend is most exciting to you at the moment? Why?

One makeup look I am really into at the moment is a berry stain on the lips. It’s the most modern way to wear a lipstick, patted onto your lips with a finger. Don’t worry about the lip-line not being perfect it’s part of the look to leave it soft.

Q3. If a girl is going to invest in 5 makeup brushes, which do you feel are the most important to own?

I swear by the brushes by Paula Dorf. Try her concealer brush Total Camouflage, it blends the product perfectly into the skin. 

For blending eyeshadow whether it’s cream or powder, Paula Dorf’s Smoke Lid is the perfect size for blending under the lower and along the top lashes. It’s amazingly soft and also works perfectly to smudge eye-pencil.

To blend on the eye-lid and/or in the socket Sheer Crease by Paula Dorf is ideal. You will have great control of the movement of the pigment.

Trish McEvoy also does a wonderful range of brushes. The Sheer Blush brush is so soft, feels amazing on the skin and blends products amazingly. You can use it to apply your blusher and/or bronzer.

The slightly smaller version, the Highlighter brush, is the perfect tool not only to apply highlighter but also to apply powder!

Q4. What brand/type of concealer is your favorite for camouflaging the effects of a late night out (under-eye circles, blemishes)?

I love Estee Lauder’s Maximum Cover and I use them religiously! Mix with a tiny bit of moisturizer for a texture that covers any blemishes and makes your complexion look dewy and glowing!

For an under eye “lift” try Bobbi Brown’s Eye Brightener. It will get rid of any dull shadows!

Q5. You’ve got a gorgeous complexion, who/what do you rely on to keep your skin so luminous?

I do look after my skin. I cleanse it morning and night plus I have regular facials.

But I also rely on amazing products!  I love all the products by Ila. Their skincare range is natural, organic and made of the best quality ingredients that are the purest available, sourced from around the world.

Their Face Oil for Glowing Radiance does exactly what it says in the name. Your skin will look rejuvenated and radiant and you will notice the difference instantly!

Ila also does a Body Oil For Vital Energy. It will help you restore your natural energy and help your body deal with everyday stress.

Q5 with David Kirsch

From Heidi Klum's legs to Kerry Washington's derrière, fitness guru David Kirsch has molded some of the most enviable forms in Hollywood. His innovative diet plans, fitness routines, and highly-regarded supplements have come to establish this supertrainer as a celebrity in his own right.

To find out how we, mere mortals, can stay in shape this season I asked David for a little 'cheat sheet' on all things fitness-related...

Q1: If one has only 15 minutes to exercise daily, what would you recommend as a basic routine (that could be extended into a longer session)?

If one has only fifteen minutes to exercise daily I would make sure to hit the major body parts- core, glutes, arms and legs. Start every morning with stretching, then wide stance squats, double crunches (engaging   both the upper and lower body), push-ups and planks.

Q2: Would you say your highly-regarded New York Body Plan is a quick fix or a lifestyle?

The Ultimate New York Body Plan is a program that will jump start your fitness/wellness program, but at its core, it is a life transformative program.

Q3: Which seemingly healthy foods should we avoid, or reduce, when trying to loss weight?

The “healthy” foods to avoid (or at least limit the consumption of) are pineapples, raisins, bananas, corn, white potatoes, cherries, and grapes.

Q4: Do you believe in cleansing or fasting for health?

I believe that in this time, a healthy juice cleanse or a wellness cleanse can be a very effective way of ridding the body of unhealthy toxins and waste. It is very important that one does not abuse or overuse fasting or cleansing and makes sure to follow the cleanse with a good probiotic. I actually have a couple of healthy cleanses (the 48 Hour Lemonade Diet and the 5-Day Detox) that clients have used to great effect.

Q5: What are the best snack foods to stock-up on (for consumption between meals)?

The best snack foods are almonds, walnuts, apples, celery, non-fat plain yogurt, and also, one of my protein meal replacement shakes (180 calories- of 25 grams of protein, flax seed and fiber) would help stave off those hunger pangs.

For additional information on the services, supplements, or books of David Kirsch, visit www.davidkirschwellness.com.

Q5 with Sally Hershberger

From her ability to create trendsetters out of celebrities, to the long list of award-winning products she's helped to develop (think John Frieda's Sheer Blonde, Brilliant Brunette...), Sally Hershberger has become synonymous with innovative, papillon-like transformations, as well as lengthy wait lists and Manolo-priced haircuts. She's simply that good.

I recently had the chance to interview Sally on her new product collection, the famous 'shagg', and how little we can really get away with trimming.

Q1: Do you think the average girl needs to splurge on high-priced hair care products, or are drugstore finds just as good?

My favorite products have often been things I find at the drugstore. But I also think it's OK to splurge on luxury items every once and a while, too. The most important thing is to find products that work well and have high quality ingredients, and those come from both the drugstore and a high-end boutique or salon. Regardless of where you buy the product, if the ingredients are cheap, you’ll be able to tell in the performance of the product. That’s why it was really important to me when developing my new haircare line, Supreme Head, to only use the best ingredients, even if it cost a little more.  In the end, I was able to produce products that are affordable for all women and available at your local drugstore, but that still deliver great style.

Q2: As you're the leading source for all things 'shagg', do you feel it's a look that anyone can wear?

Yeah, for the most part I think a very layered haircut, long or short, is a great look for most people... It adds an easy sexiness to your style, and I love that. It's probably not ideal for an aristocrat or the first lady – no one in a conservative position — but otherwise I think its a great look for most women, and even some men!

Q3: Many women leave their salon in a tizzy because their stylist decided to trim-off more length than desired. If someone is trying to grow their hair, or keep it long, what's the absolute minimum you feel can be taken off ?

Generally speaking, an 1/8 of an inch should keep hair healthy without taking off a noticeable amount of length.  If your hair is really damaged, you may want to take off a little more than that.

Q4: Which facet of your career is the most exciting at the moment?

Developing products is definitely one of my most exciting projects at the moment... I really love coming up with new ideas for products and testing them out and all that. I developed products for years with John Frieda, working on both the Sheer Blonde and Brilliant Brunette lines, so it's nice to be able to do it for myself now and have complete control over the finished product.  I’m also working on opening two new salons — one on the Upper East Side here in NY, and one in Los Angeles — so that’s also very exciting.

Q5: What's the one haircare tool you simply can't live without?

Definitely a blowdryer! I tend to use my hands a lot why styling, but having a blowdryer is an absolute must to get out any kinks or reshape small sections.

For additional information on the Supreme Head haircare collection, Sally's salons, or to view her fabulous 'how-to' instructional videos, visit SallyHershberger.com.

Q5 with Pat McGrath

Pat McGrath is a sui generis superartist, one whose influence on the beauty industry spans much farther than any runway or red carpet. Of course, such talent doesn't go unnoticed; This brilliant Brit's now added to her resume the title of Global Color Cosmetics Creative Design Director for Procter & Gamble (now that's a tongue-twister!).

I recently had the honor of quizzing Ms. McGrath on her source of inspiration, the need for primer, and what she just can't travel without.

Q1: What initially inspired you to become a makeup artist?

My mother was obsessed with both fashion and makeup. We would spend hours researching makeup for black skin.

Q2: When creating looks for the runway, do you prefer to let your creativity run wild or do you try to create looks that the average women could wear?

When creating looks for the runway, I always collaborate with the designers to develop the look. They usually have an idea of the makeup they want for the show, but they look to me to create makeup that's unique and represents the designer's aesthetic. Some makeup looks are more daring than others, but they all involve a great deal of creativity and help shape future beauty trends.

Q3: Using makeup to contour can be a bit tricky for most of us. Would you have any tips or tricks for enhancing or softening certain features?

Avoid using contour powder along the cheekbones as it can look too harsh, particularly in the daytime, but use a soft brown shadow in the eye crease to give subtle depth and dimension. Use a loose shimmer powder, such as Benefit Show Offs in Miss Moon, to accentuate the cheekbones, inner corners of the eye, Cupid’s bow and brow bone.

Q4: Do you think the use of primer is necessary for the average girl, or is it more for professional use?

Primer is great to use if your skin is normal to oily or when wearing foundation. It’s great for controlling shine and helps foundation last longer. You can even use it in place of foundation to give the skin a soft focus look that diminishes the appearance of imperfections and wrinkles. YSL Matt Touch is a great primer.

Q5: What beauty products do you always carry with you when traveling? Why?

MAX Factor Volume Couture and CoverGirl Lash Blast Mascara- These mascaras pump up my lashes and make them look full with lots of definition. They give my lashes a nice lift too. 

CoverGirl Amazemint Lip Gloss is very fresh and great when traveling. Every time I press my lips together when I wear this gloss, I get a cool mint flavor that’s refreshing. It makes my lips feel smooth for hours.

SKII Air Touch Foundation (custom blended for my skin). I love the way it makes my skin appear flawless, yet you can’t see any foundation. It’s also very easy to use and carry with me. I wear it when I’m on camera backstage and when I go out in the evenings.

Aromatherapy Associates Essential Oils bring a wonderful smell to hotel rooms and combat jet lag. I love applying it to my pulse points (wrists, temples) because it releases a relaxing scent all day, and before I go to sleep at night.

MAX Factor ColorGenius Blush in Spices- This blush is a wonderful shade for deeper complexions, as it gives that hint of peachy rose color that’s so pretty.

Q5 with Rita Hazan

With a lengthy client list that includes the beautiful locks of Jennifer Lopez and Jessica Biel (even Oprah's a fan...), it's no wonder why Rita Hazan is quickly becoming one of America's most sought-after colorists.

Check out our Q5 session below for Rita's thoughts on (intentionally) visible roots, common color mistakes, and who can really go red. 

Q1: What do you find to be the most common mistakes women make with hair color?

Doing color to the extreme. Going from light to dark or not lightening the base enough.

Q2: Do you have any general tips/tricks for extending color between visits?

Use a shampoo for color treated hair and stay away from cleansing shampoos. Try not to shampoo too much and use a shine serum, this will make the hair appear more healthy.

Q3: Can anyone go red or do you feel that color works best with certain skin tones/hair types?

Not everyone can be a redhead. Red only works for light, pale, freckled skin with light eyes.

Q4: What are your thoughts on the current trend of showing a little more regrowth?

Hate it. Roots are never sexy, it just looks unkept and unmaintained. I love fresh bright color.

Q5: Are you currently addicted to any at-home conditioning treatments? 

Phyto Phytonectar Oil. I love it! You put it on dry hair and leave it for 30 minutes, or even overnight.

Q5 with Erin Anderson

Based in New York, Erin Anderson is best known for styling some of Hollywood's most enviable tresses. Her extensive client list includes the likes of Mischa Barton and Rachel Weisz, both of which rely on Erin's experience and expertise to highlight their best features and keep their style current. 

I recently had the opportunity to quiz Erin on summer haircare, how to achieve the perfect fringe, and what styling products she turns to as a professional.

Q1: Our hair can be brutally abused by the elements in the summertime, what do you recommend to protect/repair the hair?

Protection is key to address first, hopefully to avoid the need to repair! Protection methods I recommend are: wearing a hat, always wetting the hair down with fresh water before going in swimming pools and rinsing right after, and/or using a sun protection sprays such as Phyto Plage Protective Beach Spray w/olive oil for dryer hair types or Phyto Plage Protective Sun Veil w/ sunflower extract for oilier hair types.  If your hair does become damaged by sun, chlorine, and/or salt water exposure, a weekly masque or treatment is necessary.

Q2: Can you recommend any simple at-home styling tips/tricks to achieve the tousled, wavy ('Gisele') look?

To achieve that wavy tousled 'Gisele' look, you can use beach sprays such as Bumble and bumble Surf Spray or John Frieda Ocean Waves.  Depending on the texture of your hair, I recommend different methods for using the product. For thicker/drier types, I recommend using a leave in conditioner underneath and for oilier finer types, its fine on its own.  You can also let hair dry naturally encouraging movement. Once your hair is dry, try using an inch, or larger, curling iron, wrapping sections around the wand freestyle.  NO WINDING! This way you get a wave and not a curl.  Finish off by using a pomade, such as V05 Reworkable Putty, to separate and give a 'lived in' appearance.

Q3: Do you feel anyone can go blonde or should the look be reserved for certain skin tones/hair types?

Anyone can go blond!  The key is finding the right SHADE of blonde to suit your skin tone and hair type.

Q4: Some of us have learned, the hard way, that bangs can be a bit overwhelming to the wrong facial structure. How do create such flattering bangs for clients, like Mischa Barton, who have a round or square facial shape? Is it in the cut or in the styling techniques?

Deciding to cut bangs is a great way to change up a 'stale' style.  The key is consulting with your stylist to figure out what style of bangs will be most flattering to your face and what will work into your existing haircut.  For round and square face shapes, I recommend keeping the bangs on the longer side side swept with soft ends.  That way you create soft angles to bring out facial features like eyes and cheekbones. I also recommend a long  'V' shape, that way you can style to either side and achieve different looks.

Q5: What are the top three styling products you're addicted to at the moment?

  The top 3 styling products I'm addicted to at the moment are:

1. Spray Wax by SachaJuan
2. Vo5 Heat Defense
3. Bumble and bumble Does It All Styling Spray
   

Q5 with Evelyne Noraz

From her work on iconic TV shows/films including Sex and the City and The Devil Wears Prada to dressing the face of Jessica Alba as her personal makeup artist, Evelyne Noraz has become the film industry's best kept secret. Below, I quiz the beauty veteran on her personal product preferences and how to achieve her clients' gorgeous glow.

Q1: You've been traveling the world recently, often hitting numerous cities with varying climates within days/weeks of one another, how do you protect your skin from these drastic changes?

I use heavier moisturizers for dryer climates and gels or serums for very humid ones. I have lots of products to play with so I try to use what seems more appropriate for my skin where ever I am. I like to use a cleanser that has scrubbing properties as well, it seems to help keep my skin in check!

Q2: Black liquid liner has made an appearance at many Fall shows this year but the art of painting it on can be a daunting task, would you have any tips/tricks for application?

I prefer to use gel liners (Bobbi Brown, Stila, and MAC make great ones), they are easier to apply and to clean up if you make a mistake! You can also draw a line with a sharpened eye pencil first and then go over it with the liquid liner once you're happy with the line. The use of a liner brush will help as well, one with a long handle. I almost never use the brush that comes with the liquid liner.

Q3: Jessica always has a beautifully bronzed glow to her skin, what products do you use to highlight her complexion?

I use a shimmery bronzer and/or shimmering powder or liquid highlighter above the cheekbones and on the bridge of her nose. I also use a mineral foundation slightly darker than her skin tone and I don't use a lot of powder.

Q4: How often do you feel one should one bin their makeup collection and start fresh? Can we keep certain products longer than others?

Foundation, mascara and lip gloss are the first to go bad, you can tell by the smell and the way the product separate. I keep eyeshadows for a long time and powder blush as well, but anything creamy or liquid gets trashed every few months or so...

Q5: What is your favorite mascara? Why?

I was very happy with MAC mascaras for a long time, but Dior has a great collection (Diorshow) as well as Revlon and Kevyn Aucoin. Actresses usually tell me which one they prefer!

Q5 with Luisa Duran

 Nelly Furtado always looks absolutely gorgeous whether she's featured on the cover of a magazine or hitting the red carpet, thanks to the talent of celebrity makeup artist Luisa Duran.

Though currently on tour, Luisa graciously fit in a quick Q5 session to discuss her favorite products, current beauty trends, and the secret to Nelly's radiant complexion.

Q1: What's your favorite multi-tasking/multi-use beauty product?

I tend to use most products for there intended purpose mainly because I love just having an assortment of products to use, but one of my 'must haves' is gold powder whether loose or in brick form.

You can use it as a shadow, lightly dusted on top of blush as a highlighter and, here's my favorite, along the collarbone and shoulder blades.

Q2: Ruby lips have made an a strong comeback on the runway this season, how would you recommend finding the perfect shade? Is there a universal shade that works on all skin tones?

Most everyday women tend to steer clear of a darker lip, but if you take the time to try and find a good
one, you'll use it forever. YSL has amazing shades for the lips. If a shade feels too bold try applying it with your finger as a wash.

Q3: Nelly's always got a gorgeous glow to her skin, what do you use to illuminate her complexion?

I'm fortunate to have such a naturally beautiful client, but to get the same glow as Nelly make sure to moisturize well. I use Smashbox's primer to make sure the foundation sits beautifully on her skin. To create a glow, I tend to mix in a skin illuminator from Stila with a liquid foundation and just a light brush of translucent powder to set the look, but not make it matte.

Q4: How do you feel about the 'airbrush' spray makeup trend? Are these products better/easier to use that the standard sponge or finger application?

Although airbrushing is quick and great for coverage, I don't recommend it for home use. Some companies are coming out with personal airbrush foundations/blushes and they do cover flawlessly, however it's a bit tricky to apply to oneself.

I love using my fingers, it blends more naturally and you have better control of the amount of makeup you apply. When it comes to clients, I prefer the finger sponge method as well- I look at it as a form of sculpting and it’s enjoyable for me.

Q5: What five beauty tools or products are you addicted to at the moment?

The 5 beauty products I'm addicted to at the moment are C.O. Bigelow's Mentha Lip Balm and their Lip Moisturizer with Shea Butter, Lancome’s 3D Mascara, Stila’s Liquid Illuminator, YSL’s Black Liquid Eye Liner, and the Lancome Magique Blush in Raspberry Souffle.